*** Please note that this is a simple beginner’s guide. It is not meant to be a detailed guide. You are advised to do your own research when starting out. More information can be found by searching through the articles on this site, by listening to The Aquarist’s Edge podcast, or subscribing to our YouTube channel.
Setting up your first aquarium is exciting, but it is also where most problems start if you rush the basics. This guide walks you through a simple, proven setup that helps your fish thrive and helps you avoid the common mistakes like cloudy water, fish losses, algae explosions, and endless “why is my tank doing this?” moments.
If you’re brand new, follow the steps in order. If you’ve kept fish before, use this as a checklist to tighten your system.
Before you buy anything: decide what you want to keep
Your fish choice determines your tank size, filtration, heater needs, and even your plant options.
Ask yourself:
- Do you want livebearers like guppies and endlers?
- Do you want a community tank with mixed peaceful fish?
- Are you aiming for plants and aquascaping, or a simple low-maintenance setup?
If you’re unsure, start with hardy, beginner-friendly fish and a tank that’s large enough to stay stable.
Step 1: Choose the right tank size (bigger is easier)
A common beginner mistake is going too small. Small tanks change quickly. Temperature swings, waste builds up faster, and fish get stressed.
A good starting point for most beginners is 60–100 L. This is a sweet spot for stability and flexibility.
If you can go larger, do it. You’ll have an easier time.
Step 2: Filtration, the “engine” of your aquarium
Your filter does two jobs:
- Moves water for circulation and oxygenation
- Provides a home for beneficial bacteria, which is your biological filter
A simple, reliable beginner approach:
- A filter that can turn over the tank water at least 4–6 times per hour
- Plenty of biomedia, where bacteria live
- A prefilter or sponge to protect fry and reduce clogging, especially for livebearers
Explore equipment essentials in the shop:
Step 3: Heating (if needed), keep temperatures stable
In many homes, water temperature fluctuates more than people realise, especially at night and in winter.
If you keep tropical fish, you generally want stability. Many tropical freshwater tanks sit comfortably around 24–26 °C, but it depends on species.
Use a heater if your tank swings or drops too low, and always use a thermometer.
Step 4: Water preparation, always use conditioner
Tap water typically contains chlorine or chloramine that can harm fish and beneficial bacteria.
What to do:
- Use a water conditioner every time you add new water.
- If your water is very hard or very soft, plan around fish that match your local conditions.
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Step 5: Substrate and decor, choose based on your goal
Your substrate affects plants, aesthetics, and maintenance.
Simple options:
- For low-maintenance tanks, use inert gravel or sand with hardy plants.
- For planted tanks, use a nutrient base or plant-friendly substrate.
Add hiding spots and cover. This reduces stress and makes fish behave naturally.
Step 6: Cycling the tank (the step you don’t skip)
Cycling is the process of building the bacteria that convert toxic waste.
Ammonia becomes nitrite, then nitrate.
If you add fish before this system is established, you risk fish losses.
Beginner-friendly approach:
- Set up the tank with the filter running
- Add beneficial bacteria if you use it
- Start slowly with livestock
- Test water regularly in the first few weeks
This one step is the difference between “fishkeeping is easy” and “this hobby is impossible”.
Step 7: Stocking, start slow and build up
Even if the tank looks ready, your filter bacteria need time to scale up.
A smart plan:
- Start with a small number of hardy fish
- Wait 1–2 weeks
- Add more gradually
For livebearers:
- Keep a sensible male-to-female ratio if you’re breeding, or choose males only if you don’t want lots of fry.
Browse:
- Shop → Fish (General)
- Shop → Fish (Livebearers)
- Shop → Invertebrates
Step 8: Feeding, less is more
Overfeeding causes:
- Cloudy water
- Algae
- Poor water quality
- Sick fish
A simple rule:
- Feed what they can finish in 30–60 seconds, once or twice a day.
- Skip a day occasionally. Healthy fish can handle it.
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Step 9: Maintenance routine (easy, realistic, effective)
You don’t need to overcomplicate it.
Weekly:
- 20–30% water change
- Light gravel vacuum where waste collects
- Wipe glass if needed
Monthly:
- Rinse filter sponge or media in old tank water, not under the tap
- Check heater and filter flow
The goal is consistency, not perfection.
Troubleshooting: common beginner problems
“My water is cloudy”
Usually from:
- Overfeeding
- Bacterial bloom in a new tank
- Disturbed substrate
Solution:
- Reduce feeding
- Keep up water changes
- Check filtration
“I have algae everywhere”
Usually from:
- Too much light
- Too many nutrients from overfeeding
- Not enough plants
Solution:
- Shorten the lighting period
- Reduce feeding
- Add fast-growing plants
“My fish are dying and I don’t know why”
Most often:
- Uncycled tank
- Temperature swings
- Chlorine exposure
- Poor water quality
Solution:
- Test water
- Confirm heater and filter
- Use conditioner
FAQ
How long should I cycle my aquarium before adding fish?
It varies, but the safest approach is not to rush. Cycling depends on bacteria growth, temperature, and waste input. Testing helps you know when the tank is stable.
Can I add all my fish at once?
It is better to add fish gradually so your filter bacteria can keep up.
Do I need plants?
You don’t need them, but plants make most tanks more stable and reduce algae by competing for nutrients.
What’s the easiest fish for beginners?
Many people do well with hardy community fish or livebearers, as long as the tank is cycled and water is stable.
Ready to start?
If you want the smoothest beginner experience, start with reliable essentials and build from there.
Visit Shop → Best Sellers and you’ll find the items most people start with.